This is one of the first questions children ask when embarking upon the diﬃcult path to knowledge. So, why exactly is it dark at night? Because the Sun isn’t in the sky, of course!
Physics can give an inquisitive mind plenty of food for thought, and under the right conditions, it can help develop critical thinking. But there’s a paradox: high school physics has very little to do with the way physics as a science is practiced today. The vast majority of concepts and phenomena studied by millions of high school students around the world are from the 17th–19th centuries! So, why do we continue to approach the study of physics in this way?
Many centuries ago, riding waves was a favorite pastime of the natives of Polynesia, and today it’s a professional sport that’s even included in the Olympic games. Over hundreds of years, the boards and styles of surfing have changed, but there is still a sense of magic when you see a wave appear out of nowhere and a person hop on, carving a line in the water that immediately disappears into turbulent foam. However, behind any “magic” are the laws of physics, and surfing is no exception. Here, we’ll tell you all about where the waves come from and how surfers manage to “saddle” them.